Knitted fabric and method for its production



Nov. A 27 i923 l. SPRINGTHORPE KNLTTDD FABRIC AND METHOD Foa' I'rs PRODUCTION 7 sheets-sheet 1 "Filed Nov. 19, 1918 l. SPRINGTHORPE KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD FOR ITS PRODUCTION New.' 2,7, 123'. m4753325 `Fi1ed Nov. 19, 1918 fr sheets-.sheet 2 l. SPRINGTHQRPE KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD FOR ITS PRODUCTION Filed NOV. 19', 1918 '7 Sheets-Sheet 5 INU! .Whg

Nv. 27 1923. 1,475,325 l. SPRNGTHORPE t KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD FOR ITs PRODUCTION 7 sheets-sheet@ Fled'Nov. 19, 1918 Nov. 27 1923. l 1,475,325

Vl. SPRNGTHORPE KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD FOR ITIS PRODUCTION Filed Nov. 19, 1918 '7 Sheets-Sheet 5 &

&

&.

&

&

&

n nn i ZIl ibl ZIl C Il l` Jpaac chrom,

Nov. 27 1923.

l. SPRINGTHORPE KNIITED FABRIC AND METHOD FOR ITS PRODUCTION l Filed Nov. 19

1918 7 Sheets-Sheet 6 l. SPRINGTHORPE KNI-TTED FABRIC AND METHOD FOR ITS PRODUCTION Nov. 27 19723.

, 1918 7 Sheets-Sheet '7 Filed Nov. :L9l

Patented Nov. 2.7, 1923.

y A 1,415,325- UNlTEo STATES PATENT OFFICE.

me srnnvemnonrn, .or GEEMANTOWN, .PENNSYLVANIA AssIGNoE, BY MEsNE AssIeNMEN'rs, 'ro SPRINGTHOEPE :rEx'I-ILE MACHINE COMPANY, or PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, A CORPORATION or DELAWARE. v

KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD FOR ITS PRQDUCTION.

Application tiled November 19, 1918. Serial No. 263,165.

To all whom t may concern:

Be L'it known thatl, ISAAC SPRINGTHORPE, a citizen of the United States, residing at Germantown, Philadelphia, in the county of Philadelphia and State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Knitted Fabric and Methods for Its Production, of which the following is a specification.

Theobject of this invention is' to provide va new method of knitting and a new fabric produced thereby having the characteristics and appearance of woven fabrics, either with, or without, a nap or pile, at greatly lessened cost of materials, time and labor with a vastly increased rate of production.

My new method of knitting., and fabric are, respectively, susceptible of such variation without departing from their novel principles so that fabrics of different appearance may be produced at different times.

My invention may also be practiced to produce either a relatively smooth-faced fabric, or, on the other hand, one having a nap or pile.

(In any instance, however, my, invention may be practiced to produce a knitted fabric which has the minimum tendency to stretch either Warpwise or weftwise.

When the invention is' practiced to produce a knitted pile fabric, a solid substantially non-stretchable body or back is formed with lwhich is interknit weft pilethreads having loose, free parts which constitute a nap that can be left as such, or, subsequently combed or brushed up as devvsired without injury to the body, and

scoured, dyed, and fulled, or otherwise treated as desired.

When the invention is practiced to produce a substantially fiat-faced fabric the weft pile-threads may be omitted.v

The principal object of my invention is, fhowever, to produce a knitted fabric having a substantially non-stretchable body and a free, high pile outstanding therefrom.

Whether the invention be practiced to produce a dat-surfaced fabric, or, on the other hand, a pile fabric, the body of the fabric produced is filled substantially solid ,with Weftwise extendingribs. The body comprises tightly knit wai-ps Whose loops 'light-ly tensioned weft threads.

are interknit with, and tightly bind, groups or bundles ofl Weftwise extending threads. Each weftthread is laid in sinuous form relative to the lengths of the warps, and successive weft threads of the respective groups or bundles have their turns or bends arranged in progressively advanced position, weftwise of the fabric, and tightly interknit with the loops of successive courses of the Warps at said` turningl points. The invention contemplates tensioned Warp threads and tensioned weft threads for the formation of the body of the fabric. Consequently, each loop 0f each warp is sub- ]ect to the opposing weftwise acting tensions of the bends or turns of-the weft threads. and, during; the incorporation of the weft threads, the loops of the warps are alternately pulled to the left and right, weftwise of the fabric being produced'.

l-Vhen the invention is practiced to produce a fabric having a pile or nap, the body is formed as previously outlined and, Simultaneously with the placing` of the yrelatively heavily tensioned weft threads, there are laid, in/a sinuous form, other weft threads whirh are, however, only lightly tensioned. These lightly tensioned weft threads are laid alongside the relatively heavily tensioned weft threads and are incorporated with the bundles or groups of the latter into thc-'loops of the warps and tightly bound by the-m. Beinglightly tensioned, however, these weft threads are pulled by the` knitting action into relatively deep, loose. free loops at the bends or turns of the said Consequently, -When the needles complete their Work, these deep, loose, free loops remain as such. The tension on the warp threads causes the loops of thevvarps and the bundles or groups of relatively heavily tensioned weft threads to 'exert a pressure or constricting action on the lightly tensioned weft threads to hold them in position, and the frequency with which the loops are laid causes them to stand outwardly .from the tace of the body and constitute a nap or pile. This nap or pile being composed of free surface loops, may be subsequently combed, brushed up. or treated in any manner to give the fabric the appearance of a woven fabric.

To produce either a fiat surfaced. or a pile, fabric, the weft threads are iirst laid hooks of the needles.

in groups or bundles across the backs of as many of the needles as may bev predetermined. The Warp threads are then laid so as to be positioned for engagement by the The needles then knit the tensioned weft threads into the loops of the Warp threads, said loops ^surrounding and tightly embracing the bundles of ,weft threads Which have been laid. Another course of weft threads is then laid in the y opposite direction Weftwise across the backs of a corresponding number of the needles the hook sides of the needles.

and the Warp threads are again laid across The needles then form additional loops in the warp threads and tightly knit in the new bundlesv of weft threads thus laid.

The needles form the Warps into a series of tight loops, tightlybinding in such weft `threads as have been previously laid across the backs of the needles. There. are thus knitted tightly into the loops of the Warps, bundles, sets, or groups of weft threads, each thread proceeding in regular sinuous form Warpwise of the fabric being produced and all the weft threads collectively constituting bundles or groups which, due to progressive these lightly tensioned weft threads will be laid across the backs of fewer of thc needles than those crossed vby the more heavily tensioned weft threads which form, the body of the fabric. lightly tensioned weft threads forms deep loops in-them', which remain, free and loose, due to the relative lack of tension on these threads.

The method may be practiced, and the fabric produced, on a knitting machine having independently movable thread guide bars and movable needles.

The Warp and weft thread carriers should he subject to suitably heavy braking action to afford the requisite tension for said threads. The carriers'for the weft threads Whose loops are to form the nap or pile, should be subject to only very light braking action. i

In an application for a knitting machine led J une 28, 1918, Serial No. 24248() l have disclosed a machine which may be adapted to carry out the present method. i

While my method and fabric are not restricted to 'placing the weft threads across The knitting action on the any given vnumber of needles, l have found in practice that the relatively heavily tensioned weft threads may, with highly satis- 'of the knitted fabric being shown, the thread guides being shown asdisplaced .laterally 'from their true position to enable the showing to be made diagrammatically, the needles being slightly elevated and the cycle of knitting about to begin; K

Fig. 2, a' similar view, showing the b thread guides actually displaced .two units to thc left to lay each nap or pile thread in position to cross the backs of two needles, and the c thread guides actually displaced eight units to the left to 'lay each weft binding thread in position to cross the backs of eight needles; i

Fig. 3, a similar View, the needles having risen and moved (,rosswise in traversing relation to the a, b and c thread guides as shown in Fig. 7, the a thread guides having not yet moved across the hook sides of the needles;

Fig. 4, a similar view, the thread guides a having been shifted one unit to the rightfrom their position in Fig. 3 to lay the respective Warp threads across the 'hook sides of the needles, the needles having partially descended to begin the binding in of the b and c threads in lthe Warp 'thread loop leing formed, as shoiin in Fig. 8;

Fig. 5, is a side elevation showing the true' arrangement of the a, Z1, c thread guides, that is, in front of one another. the needle being' down and in initial postition for starting the cycle; i f

Fig. 6, a view, like'Fig. 5, showing the needle slightly elevated above the work plate, the cycle having begun, as in Fig.` 1:

Fig. 7, a vierir like Fig. 5, on line 7 7, Fig. 3, the-12' and 0' threads having been laid across the backsof two and eight needles, respectively, the needle beinginits.

farthest advanced position and its cycle half completed; p v

Fig. 8, a view like Fig. 5, the a thread guide having beenpreviously shifted to lay the a or Warp thread across the hook side of the needle, the needle novir being on lthe' return part of its cycle, its hook being engaged with the Warp thread and pulling it down as shown in Fig. 4;

Fig. 9, a view like Fig. 5, showing the needle nearly at the completion of the cycle ltlf) through the previously formed loop of thatv thread for the urpose of locking the b and cf weft t reads in the Warp loop toy y bind the warp to the Ithreads yto form 'c' andvnap or pile weft threads b have been the body of the fabric; l

Fig. 1), an enlarged detail weftwise sectional vievy of a portion of the fabric pro'- duced bythe method, the a' warp threads being shown in section; l

c Fig.' 11, an enlarged elevation view', looking toward the work plate, disclosing a few needles and a thread guides, illustratingr a net or nubia fabric which may be produced by the method, there being only three weft threads and one pile thread laid in, to better disclose the'nature of the net foundation.

Fig. 12 is an'enlarged fragmentary detail view looking toward the front of a portion of a nap or pile-fabric made according to the present invention, numerous body-formingand nap' or pile-forming threads being omitted for the sake of clearness;

Fig. 13 is a Weftwise-section on line 13-13, Fig. 12;

Fig. 14 is an enlarged fragmentary detail view looki toward the back of the fabric of Figs. 12 and 13, numerous body-forming threads being omitted for the sake of clearness; and

Fig. 15` is an enlarged fragmentary vertical or warpwise section showing all the body-forming and pile-forming weft threads in section, a warp chain in full lines, and the nap or pile loops.

While my method is'not limited to being practiced on any particular knitting .machine, I have shown inthe drawings in a diagrammatic. manner, the general arrangement and movements of the thread guides, needles, and Work plate' of the machine of my application Serial No. 242480 by way of illustration.

The layout of the thread guides is necessarily distortedin Figs. l, 2, 3, 4 to illustrate the steps of the method; the true arrangement of the thread guides a, b, c, is that shown in Figs. 5 to'9 inclusive.- The showing of the threads a', b', c andthe warp chains a is greatly exaggerated in the mat ter of spacing and proportions. A large number of thread guides corresponding, respectively, to a, b, c, are carried by bars which are timed and actuated as to frequency and amplitude according to the requirements of the practice of the method, The timingand characteristics of the cycle of travel of the needles n. and the needle bar fn." which carries them cause ythe needles to have a general crosswise traversing more ment in relation to the thread guides a, b, c. The Warp threads a correspond in number c the needles fn. and their guides o, have a movement of but one unit.. that is, to lay the thread across the hook side of but one needle,

in each instance.l The respective needles n knit the threads u. into parallel warp chains a" which pass down the face of the Work plate Aw as the Warp loops are cast from the needles after the body-binding weft threads first laid, and then bound in by said Warp loops. The warp threads a" are under relatively heavy tension which may be provided by suitably weighted brake straps` acting on the beanifrom which these Warp threads are taken. p

The body-binding weft threads c are also under relatively heavy tension which may be applied by Weighted brake straps acting on the beam from which they are taken.

The nap or pile weft threads b are subject to relatively light tension; in practice, they are relatively loose, as shown, for 'in stance, in Figs. 1 and 8. The tension on the threads 71 is so' light that it is just sufficient to allow the-m to be taken olf from 'their beam and properly drawn down for incorporationin the fabric.

The threads b', c', are themselves not knitted into loops or chains,.as are the Warp f threads af, and are not engaged by. the hooks of the needles. These threads bl are, by first shifting the. thread'guides `b v v .a in' position to be engaged by the 'backsofthe needles nwhen the .latter subsequently.,"rise,f

traverse the thread guides c, b, a, in the order stated, the backs of the needles engage and pull'upon the threads'fb, o', as shownin Fig. 7. Being under relatively heavy tension, the body-binding weft lthreads c become very taut but the na or pille forming weft threads b, being un er onlyA light tension, are formed by the knitting actioninto as shown in Fig.l 6, and as the needles free, loose, deep loops b, such loops remaining at the bends or turns of the b threads as they are not taken up by any subsequent tension.

After the needles have assumed the position shown in Figs. 3 andi7 and carried out the' step just described, thus completing one half of their cycle, the thread guides a are shifted a distance of one unit, that is, sufficiently to lay each Warp thread a across one needle n on the hook-side thereof. The

needles are then shifted to re-traverse the thread guides inthe order a, b, o, the Warp threads a entering the needle hooks and sucplained but now more in the opposite directienv to their previous travel, thus laying the next course opposite to the previous one. Consequently, the threads b and c are laid in regular sinuous form throughout the length of the fabric.

"l`he tension on threads a', c, is sufficiently heavy to insure a very tirm compression ot' the bundle or group of threads 7;', c by the loop am; this compression, with the pressure exerted by the 'c' threads on the 71 threads within the loops a" holds the' loose, vt'ree pile or nap threads b firmly in position on the face of the fabric, as shown in Fig. 1.0. The relative arrangement. ot the thread guides b and c, the former being in tront ot the. latter, contributes to posit-ion the b" threads on the surface o't the tal itz In Figs. 5 to 9, the loopsI b appear as they are in the knitted fabric. They may he let't in that form, or, they may be brushed, combed. or otherwise treated.

The relatively heavy tension to which the rxett threadsl c are, subject' .causes their bends or turns c to draw tightly' wettwise on the loops a. rl`he method. ot lay-'ing the threads c in slnuous i'orm,a glven number f,11nits one way (eight in the present units, respectively.

instance) in one course` then rising and` returning in the oppositedirection in the succeedlng course a distance embracing the same number ot'- unlts, places the threads c inbundles or groups whose bends c are arranged in successively progressing position in both directions weftwise ot' the fabric. This results insubjecting each loop fz" ot each warp chain a to opposite pulls by oppositely turning or facing bends c and tightly binds the fabric together Wet'twisc. The tension on the warp threads a causes them to be knitted as tight chains a. 'onsequently, the possibility ot stretching warpwisc or weftwise in a fabric produced hy my method is reduced to a minimum.

My method may be practiced to produce a fabric having n smooth or tlat body by the use ot' only the" threads a and c and in that respect the method is complete. It a knitted pile fabric is to he produced, which is a particular object of the invention, the. 7) threadsunder relatively light tension are laid in the manner heretofore described..

The wettwise travel or lay of both the binding threads c and the vnap threads b may cover a greater or lesser number ot iinits than eight and two, respectively.

The method may be considered as commencing when the conditions are as disclosed in Fig. 5. The first step in th cycle of knitting is to -move they thread guid bars b, c the distances which have been determined for them, such as two and eight The needle bar a is then shifted to cau'se the needles to rise and traverse the thread guides v0, b, a, in the the previously formed loops ay V is defined between the loops and the warp4 threads of; the latter running direct 'from the thread guides a to the inished fabric in iront ot the'work plate, as shown in Fig. G. Threads L. c are thus laid across the backs ot their respective number of needles and in. the V thus formed. This step is illustrated in Figs. 2 and (3, where a group ot' eight. wett threads c and four nap threads .7/ are shown as having been moved wett# wise in the same direction to assume diagonal positions.

The needles moving in the first half o't their cycle finally reach the 'positions shown in Fig. 7, meanwhile contacting with and positioning the portions of b and c threads which are to be incorporated into the tabric, i. c., those which were previously deposited in the V ol warp threads a The thread guide a is non7 moved to lay each warp thread across its needle, as shown in Fig. 7. v y

The needles next re-traverse the lthread guidesin thc order a, b, c, and during such re-traver:-1e assume the position lshown in Figs. 4 and 8, where the hooks of the needles are shown .as engaged with the threads a. The descent ot' the needle finally causes the previously Jformed loop '(L'" to close the needle latch and the newly formed loop a to be pulled through the formed loop, as shown in Figs. 9 and t. `The' newly formed loop is thus retained by thev ncedlehook. The com/pletelyknitted loop c" in the chain a now tightly binds the bundle of threads b', c', and the pile loops b" are lautomatically, as it were, positioned on the face of the fabric.

The fabric produced is substantially lll tilted with we'ftwise running ribs tormed by v the bundles or groups of threads c".

Fig. 11 disclosed a non-stretchable net or nubia pile fabric which may be produced by my method. In producing such a fabric the steps previously described are Jfollowed. Instead, however, offorming foundation warp chains, the relatively heavily tensioned warp threads a running from the guides a to the needles n are knitted into,

loop units a. which collectively constitute a net or nubia body.

4 The relatively heavily ftensioned weft threads c are laid in regular si-nuous form a. given number ot' units one way (eight in the present instance) in one course, then rising and returning in the opposite direction in the succeeding course afdistance embracing the same number of units. This method places the threads c in bundles or groups whose bends c are arranged in successively progressing position in both directions weftwise of the fabric. This results .in subjecting the loop units a. to opposite pulls llt) . ing threads c. If a pile net or nubia fabric' by the oppositely facing bends c, as prev1ouslyexplained at length, and tightly binds the loop units a of the net or nubia foundation together Weftwise. l

When forming a net fabric my method maybe practiced to produce a fabric having a smooth or flat body composed of the net foundation loop. units a and the weft bindis to be produced,'the snuous, lightly tensioned b threads are laid, and bound in by the' loop units a, in the manner heretofore described. The bends or turns b remain as free, loose, deep loops, as previously described.

In Fig. 11 I have shoyvn only three weft i threads of and one nap or pile thread b but it will be understood that these threads are incorporated throughout the fabric in suitable numbers, as previously set forth.

My method is susceptible of produc-ing fabrics whose foundation of a' and c threads is formed of other stitches than the warp chains and net loops heretofore described and its product is not limited to warp chain and net foundations.

The fabric shown in Figs. 12 to 15 inclusive, has warp threads a. which are knitted into parallel chains composed of successive lops a in successive courses. Extending through, and tightly bound by, the loops a vare groups or bundles of body-forming, binding weft-threads c" each of which runs in regular sinuous form throughout vthe fabric. Each thread 0 extends l a given number of units weftwise of the fabric, that is, it is enclosed by and crosses the loops a of a given number of 'the Warp chains. Each thread c then rises and bends or turns into the next course of the loops af and extends Weftwise in the opposite direction the same number of units as in the preceding course, then rising, bendin and returning in the following course. he bends or turns c of the threads c thus interlock With two loops'a, in successive courses of the fabric (Fig. 12). As the threads c are spaced WeftWise prior to being knitted into the fabric, and are moved equal distances in the operation of knittingthe bends or turns 0 of the individual threads c are arranged in progressively advanced position Weftwise of the fabric and interlock With the loops a of the warp chains. The threads c being laid, rst in one direction and then in the opposite direction, successive loops a of the warp chains are pulled alternately in opposite directions weftwise of the fabric, as shown in Fig. 12, and thebod the threads a', 0 is thus tightly bound together against weftwise stretching.

I do not limit myself to threads 0 which extend weftwise any given number of units, but I have found that eight units produce a highly satisfactory body.

formed of The Warp threads a being tightly knit, the fabric will have only a minimum tendency to stretch Warpvvise.

The nap or pile-forming threads b are arranged in sinuous form in successive courses of the fabric and are enclosed in, and bound by, the loops a but. form no part of the body. Their bends or' turns are free and form'loose, deep loops b which constitute the nap or pile of the fabric. These loops may be left complete, or, they may be brushed up, combed. or, otherwise finished.

I do not limit myself to the pile threads b as extending Weftwise any given number of units, but I have found that 'two units extent, with the loops b extending freely beyond inv each direction, Weftwise of the fabric as shown in Fig. 12, produces a. highly satisfactory pile.

Durin'g he operation of knitting thev present fabrlc the warp threads a and the bodytively heavy tension, which may be provided by suitably Weighted brake straps acting on the beams from which the respectivewarp threads are taken, or by other means.

When knitting the present fabric, the nap or pile weft threads b" are subject to relatively light tension; in practice, they are relatively loose. The tension of the threads b is so light that itis just sutlicient to allow pull, these loops b remain free and loose.

and constitute a n'ap or pile.

When knitting the fabric, the tension lon threads a', c is kep-t sufficiently heavy to insure a firm compression of the bundles or groups of threads b', c by theloops a of the chains of warp threads ap. This compression, With the ressure exerted by the body threads o on tlie pile threads b which are enclosed Within the loops (1., causes the pile threads to remain permanently fastened, even when the high, loose loops are subjected to severe inishing procees. In Fig. 12, the loops b ap ear as theyl are lin the knitted fabric. hey may be left in that form, or, they may be brushed, combed, or

otherwise treated.

The relatively heavy tension to which the weft threads e are Subj ect causes their bends or turns c to draw tightly Weftwise on the .forming weft threads c are under relaiba loops a, of the Warp chains a. The sinuous form of the body-threads c', agiven number of units one way (eight in the preslao ent instance) in one course, then rising and returning in the opposite direction in the succeeding course a.`distance embracingt-he same number of units, disposes the threads c in bundles or groups, the turns or bends 0 of each individual thread c being arranged in successively progressing position in both directions Weftwise of the fabric. This results in subjectingeach loop a of each Warp chain a to opposite pulls by oppositely turning or facing bends c of the body threads c and tightly binds the fabric tege-ther Weftwise. The tension on the Warp threads a causes them to be knitted as tight chains. Consequently, the possibility of stretching WarpWise or Weftwise in a fabric made like vmy invention is reduced to a minimum.

By using only the Warp threads a and body-forming threads 0 in the manner specision, but bound in by the loops a, a nap or pile fab-ric'is provided, which is a particular object of my invention.

rllhe frequency of the c threads at the back of the fabric assists in automatically forcing the napor pile threads b toward the front While the fabric is being knitted.

A furry or woolly surface is so desirable on a certain kind of fabrics that special machinery and processes have been used to produce this appearance, prior to my invention. ln an effort `to simulate fur or4 Wool it has been a common vpraetice to tear the body strands or fibres of the fabric with Wire combs and brushes, in addition to the usual scouring, dyeing and fulling`processes. Such processes of combing are, ofcourse, injurious to the fabric in several Ways. The threads may be pulled out of their proper position in 'the fabric; the 'strands of thread may be weakened or severed, thus opening rents in the fabric or leaving the Wearing surface or .body of the cloth unable to Withstand Wear for any great length of time.

My new nethod of knitting provides a fabric having a special nap or pile surface composed of free loops which are` held tightly in place in the main fabric and may, or may not, be combed', in addition to the scouring, dyeing and fulling. In any event, the body of the fabric is tightly knitted, substantially equivalent to what Weaving would produce, and is not affected unfavora-bly by any1 surface treating process to Whlch the nap or pile loops may be subjected. f

Fabrics produced b the present invention, wherein the nap or pi e loops b have merely been scoured, dyed and fulled, have been found to have a surface which is far superiory to any Which can be made by using the combing process on ordinary fabrics hereto- I fore produce-d. When the combing treatment is applied to a fabric produced by my present method, an extremely long and furry nap or surface is produced, composed solely of the surface or nap loops b. The body of the fabric, being unharmed by the surface treating processes applied to the pile or nap threads, remains as strong andiirm as in any untreated Woven cloth, While the surface presents the beautiful napped v'appearance so desirable in certain commercial fabrics. I have thus produced by my new method a fabric of gre-at Wearing qualities and attractiveness.

This application is, in part, a. continuation of application Serial No. 242,479, filed J une 28, 1918, knitted fabrics.

That l claim is:

1. The method of knitting a fabric Which is substantially non-stretchable and is of substantially uniform' and regular formation warpwise and Weftwise throughout'its extent, which consists-in forming a body composed solely of tensioned Warp threads and tensioned Weft threads, the warp threads being knitted into tight loops While knitting into said loops uniformly and regularly laid tensioned sinuous weft threads in a manner insuringthe enclosure and tight binding of the weft threads at different points of their lengths and at their bends or turns by the loops of the Warp threads and the exertion of Weftwise tension by the bends or turns of the Weft threads on the Warp loops Where they interlock with the loops of the Warp threads, the Weft threads being repeated in regular and corresponding formation WarpWise throughout the fabric in groups `or bundles, the bends or turns of the individual Weft threads of each group or bundle being regularly progressed weftwise throughout the fabric being knitted. I

2. The method of knitting a fabric which is substantially non-stretchable and is of substantially uniform and regular formation warpwise and Weftwise throughout its extent, which consists in forming a ibody composed solely of tensioned Warp threads and tensioned weft threads, the Warp threads being knitted into tight loops While knitting into' said loops uniformly and regularly laid tensioned sinuous weft threads in a manner insuring the enclosure and tight binding of the weft threads at di'erent' points of their lengths and at threads being repeated in regular and corresponding formation Warpwise throughout Cil the 4fabric in groups or bundles, the bends or turns of the. individual weft threads of each group or `bundle being regularly progressed Weftwise throughout the fabric being knitted, and each bend of a weft thread being interloeked with two loops of a, given warp thread for the purpose of subjecting each loop of a warp thread to opposite'tensions 'by the weft threads laid in different courses of the fabric.

3. The method of knitting a fabric having aI nap or pile. which consists in laying sinuous weft body-forming threads and sinuous nap or pile-forming threads across tensioned Warp threads and knit-ting the tensioned warp threads into successive loops which enclose and tightly bind the bodyforming threads and nap or pile-forming threads.

- 4. The method of knitting a fabric having a nap or pile, which consists in laying relatively heavily tensioned weft-body-forming threads and relatively lightly tensioned 'nap or pile-forming threads across tensio-ned warp threads vand knitting the tensloned 'Warp threads into successive loops Which enclose and tightly bind the body-forming threads and nap or pile-forming threads.

The method of knitting a fabric having a nap or pile, which consists in laying bodyforming weft threads and nap or pile-forming` threads in sinuous form. insuccessive cours^s across tensio-ned Warp threads and knittingl the Warp threads into successive loops which enclose and tightly bind the body-forming and nap or pile-formingl threads, While applying a degree of tension to the body-forming threads such as will cause their bends or turns to draw tightly weftwise on the Warp loops with which they interlock, and forming the nap or pile-forming threads into loops which are free or loose from the body of the fabric.

G. The method of knitting'a fabric having a nap or pile, which consists in laying bodyforming weft threads and nap or pile-forming threads in sinuous form in successive courses across tensioned Warp' threads and knitting the warp threads intoy successive loops which enclose and tightly bind the body-forming and nap or pile-forming threads, while applying a degree of tension to. the body-forming threads such as Will cause their bends or turns to draw tightly Weftwise on the Warp loops with which they interlock, 4.and a lighter tension to the nap or pile-forming threads and by such difference of tension providing the nap or pileforming threads at their bends or turns with free, loose loops on the body of the fabric.

7 The method of knitting a fabric having a nap or pile, which consists in laying bodyforming weft threads and nap or pile-form-y ing weft threads in groups or bundles in slnuous form 1n successive courses across tensioned warp threads with the bends or I turns of different ones of said body-forminer weft threads in progressively Weftwise-advanced arrangement, and knitting the-warp threads into successive loops which enclose and tightly bind the .body-forming weft threads and nap or pile-forming .weft threads, While applying a degree of tension to the body-forming weft threads such as will cause their bends or turns to draw tightly Wcftwisein opposite directions on successive warp loops with which they interlock, and a lighter tension to the nap or pile-forming threads and by suchl diil'erence of tension providing the nap or pileforming threads at their bends or turns with loops which are free or loose on the body ofl chains with which they' interlock in a manner to `exert alternately opposite tensions or pulls on each loop of a Warp.

9. A knitted fabric of uniform structure having warps comprising successive loops, relatively taut weft threads arranged in regular sinuous' formation throughout successive courses and enclosed Within, and tightly bound by, said loops, the bends or turns of said weft threads drawing tightly weftwise on l,the Warp chains with which they interlock, and nap or lpile threads arranged in regular sinuous form in successive courses and enclosed Within, land tightly bound by, said loops, the nap or pile threads having their bends or turns free and looseand constituting a nap or pile, the parts of' the nap or pile threads intermediate their bends or turns being secured to the body by the pressure of the weft threads and the binding action lof the loops of the warp chains.

' 10. A knitted pile fabric having \varp chains, composed of successive loops, pluralities of relatively taut weft threads arranged in bundles or groups in sinuous form l` in successive courses with the bends or turns of different ones of said weft threads in progressively weftwise-advanced arrangement and enclosed Within, and tightly bound by, said loops, the progressively weftwise adlli) vanced bends or turns of said weft threads drawing tightly Weftwise on the Warp chains with which they interlock, and nap or pile threads arranged in groups or bundles in sinuous form in successive courses and enclosed Within, and bound by, said loops of the Warp chains, the nap or pile threads having their bends or turns free and loose and constituting a nap or pile standing outwardly from the body of the fabric.

l1. A knitted fabric which is of substantially uniform and regular formation Warp- Wise and Weftwise and is non-stretchable, consisting of Warp threads having loops, and relatively taut sinuous weft threads, repeated in uniform sinuosity Warpwise and weft- Wise of the fabric,-each bend or turn of a weft thread being interlocked with a loop of a Warp thread, and sinuous nap or pile threads bound by the loops of the Warpl threads and repeatedv in uniform sinuosity Warpwise andweftwise of the fabric and having their bends or turns free and loose.

12. A knitted fabric consisting of independent warp chains having loops and tensioned sinuous weft threads extending Warp- Wise and WeftWise of the fabric Whose bends or Vturns interlock with the loops of the Warp chains, binding the Warp chains together, the sinuous weft threads being regularly repeated WarpWise of the fabric and arranged in Weftwise extending groups or bundles, each tensioned weft thread crossing a plurality of Warp threads, the bends or turns of successive weft threads being regularly progressed Weftwise of the fabric.

13. A knitted fabric which is of substantiallyuniform and regular formation Warp- Wise and Weftwise throughout its extent and vis non-stretchable warpwise and weftwise,

in successive courses of the fabric, the weft threads being repeated uniformly Warp'wise and weftivise throughout the fabric, and arranged in Weftivise extending groups or bundles. each tensioned weft thread crossing a plurality of Warp threads, the bends or turns of successive weft threads being arranged progressively Weftwise of the fabric.

14:. A knittcdv fabric which is of substantially uniform and regular formation warp- Wise and WeftWise and is non-stretchable Warpwise and Weftwise, consisting of independent Warp chains each composed of loops, and tensioned weft threads of uniform sinuous formation having their bends or turns interlocked with the loops of the Warp chains and exerting opposite tensions or pulls on the various Warp chains in successive courses, the weft threads binding the Warp chains together and being repeated uniformly Warpwise and WeftWise throughout the fabric and arranged in Weftwise eX- tending groups or bundles, each tensioned weft thread crossing a plurality of Warp threads, the bends or turns of successive weft threads being progressed Weftwise of the fabric.

In testimony whereof l affix my signature.

ISAAC SPRINGTHORPE. 

